Another upheaval at French luxury group Kering in less than three weeks.
First came the split between Anthony Vaccarello and Saint Laurent after ten years, followed by Seán McGirr's departure from McQueen after just under three.
Now Pierpaolo Piccioli is leaving Balenciaga after less than two years and only four runway shows: three ready-to-wear collections and one haute couture presentation.
In theory, that is hardly enough time to determine a designer's future. But apparently it was sufficient for Kering's leadership – chief executive Luca de Meo in particular – to conclude that the partnership between the house and the Italian designer was not one they wanted to stake their future on.
A departure that had been rumoured for weeks
The news has not come entirely out of the blue. Rumours of Piccioli's possible departure had been circulating for weeks, although he remains one of the industry's most respected and beloved figures.
So what went wrong?
Beyond results that fell short of expectations – Kering does not disclose financial figures for its individual brands, with the exception of Gucci – there appears to have been a shift in the objectives set for Piccioli during his tenure.
That is perhaps understandable, given that it was Francesca Bellettini, then responsible for all Kering's brands and now chief executive of Gucci, who had brought him to Balenciaga.
Shortly afterwards, Luca de Meo was appointed chief executive of the group, bringing with him a different approach, a different vision and, above all, a different understanding of what a creative director should do.
The clash between couture and streetwear
At the most recent Paris Fashion Week, Balenciaga's future was one of the most widely discussed subjects.
Piccioli, displaying considerable professionalism, met journalists to present what would turn out to be his farewell collection, carefully sidestepping questions about his future.
According to reports, he has not been seen at the brand's Paris offices since 3 October, the day after the show.
The impression is that Piccioli, one of the few true couturiers working today, had originally been recruited to reconnect the house with the sartorial ideals established by its founder, Cristóbal Balenciaga.
Yet even his debut show in October 2025 featured numerous references to the viral, casual pieces introduced by his predecessor, Demna, who is now at Gucci, Kering's flagship brand.
The disconnect between these two creative worlds was apparent from the outset, despite Piccioli's efforts to make them coexist.
Martine Rose takes over
Piccioli's successor will be British designer Martine Rose, who will take up her role on 16 November.
Rose previously worked with Demna on Balenciaga's menswear, which became one of the house's most important sources of sales under the Georgian designer.
Through her own label, she has also helped define the style of a younger generation, with an aesthetic that is pared-back and stripped-down, rooted in streetwear yet distinctly sophisticated.
Commenting on her appointment, de Meo said: “Her connection to the new generation and her instinctive understanding of culture bring a new dimension to the House. Her appointment reflects our ambition to keep Balenciaga at the forefront of innovation, creativity and culture.”
In recent months, Rose was forced to cancel orders for her label’s autumn/winter collection after Tomorrow, the company responsible for its production, was sold.
For a time, she was yet another example of an independent designer falling victim to the system. This marks a genuine fresh start.
This article was reviewed by an external translation partner