Some dishes have universal appeal, and meatballs are certainly among them. Simple, comforting and full of flavour, they are made to be placed at the centre of the table and shared.
It is no coincidence that Niko Romito chose to include them on the menu at Da Niko, the new restaurant at Bvlgari Hotel Milano, conceived around the idea of spontaneous, convivial hospitality and the pleasure of feeling at home in someone’s house.
His recipe for veal meatballs draws on that comforting, home-cooked tradition, but takes on a touch of elegance and originality thanks to a fresh, vibrant salsa verde. The sauce complements the tenderness of the meat and the crispness of its golden fried coating.
A dish that is straightforward in flavour, yet crafted with considerable technical precision.
Once you have mastered the basics, part of the appeal of meatballs is their versatility: they can easily be adapted to suit individual tastes.
Giorgio Fuda, executive chef at Da Niko, who leads the kitchen at the new Milan restaurant, walks us through the recipe step by step.
Ingredients for approximately 20 meatballs
For the meat
1 kg veal chuck
5 g salt
½ onion
½ carrot
½ celery stalk
1.2 litres water
Extra virgin olive oil
For the meatballs
500 g cooked veal, prepared as above
250 g boiled potatoes
2 egg whites
Flour, as needed
Sage, rosemary, thyme and parsley, to taste
Salt
Frying oil
For the salsa verde
80 g parsley
50 g pickled gherkins
1 anchovy fillet in oil
½ tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
120 g extra virgin olive oil
To finish
Mint
Basil and dill
Extra virgin olive oil
Vinegar
Salt
Method
Brown the veal chuck in a little olive oil. Add the onion, carrot and celery, then pour in the water. Cover and cook over a low heat for approximately three hours, until the meat is very tender.
Drain the meat, strain the cooking liquid and reduce it. Return the meat to the reduced cooking liquid for a few minutes to absorb the flavour.
“The yield can vary considerably depending on the cut of meat. As a general guide, one kilogram of raw meat will give you around 500 grams once cooked. The key ratio to remember, however, is that the potatoes should weigh roughly half as much as the cooked meat. It's therefore best to weigh the meat after cooking and adjust the quantities accordingly,” Fuda explains.
Finely chop the meat and combine it with the mashed boiled potatoes and finely chopped herbs. Add the two egg whites, season with salt and leave the mixture to rest in the refrigerator for at least one hour.
An extra tip: “When chopping the herbs, it's important to use a very sharp knife to ensure a clean cut and prevent oxidation.”
Shaping the meatballs
Shape the mixture into meatballs weighing approximately 25 g each, then roll them in flour.
Fuda shares a professional kitchen trick: “If the mixture is very soft or tends to stick to your fingers, simply dampen your hands lightly with water before shaping the meatballs.”
Frying
Deep-fry the meatballs at 175–180°C for 2–3 minutes, until golden brown. Remove them from the oil and drain off any excess.
“They should be crisp on the outside and soft on the inside,” the chef explains.
Making the salsa verde
Chef Fuda offers one important piece of advice: “The sauce needs to be blended very quickly, at maximum speed, so that the herbs don't heat up and retain their bright green colour.”
To make the salsa verde, blend the parsley, gherkins, anchovy, mustard, vinegar and extra virgin olive oil until smooth and creamy.
To serve
Serve the meatballs piping hot with the salsa verde and a small salad of mint, basil and dill, dressed with extra virgin olive oil, vinegar and salt.
This article was reviewed by an external translation partner